Thank you for the overwhelming support of the plaid Trickster dress, and/ or of my wielding power tools in my garment photos! Who can't use a good laugh every now and then?
Unlike the plaid dress, I really loved the pattern envelope pic for McCall's 5879. It wasn't until I picked up the pattern that I realized you put it on by slipping it over your head. Is it just me, or does it seem impossible that the dress could fit so well around the bust and still be wide enough to slip over one's head? Well, call me curious. I moved this dress to the top of the queue.
I usually switch my personal scent in the summer to something lemongrassy or grapefruity -- if I smell like citrus, it must be summer. So why not look like citrus, too? I pulled this fabric from last summer's stash and there were just scraps left after cutting this dress (the bodice is self-lined).
So how does it fit?
Honestly, it's a bit loose in the bodice, and a bit long. When I pinch an inch in width from center front, the darts fall a little better and it feels less baggy (might look OK on Clementine but she is about 1" around the bust than I am). If I sew this again, I will modify the bodice accordingly and insert a zipper to get in and out. I like the pleated skirt a lot -- full and comfy.
Even though I have a serger, french seams are my favorite finish. Since I wanted to put in side seam pockets, I had a chance to face a challenge I didn't really succeed at the last time I tried to french seam with side seam pockets. This time, I'm happy to report things turned out better. From the side, looks like a trusty ol' seam:
When you dig a little closer, you can see there are pockets:
And when you look inside the dress, the pockets themselves are finished nicely with a french seam. And if you're similarly disinclined to change thread to match the pockets, you'll use a mango-colored thread to finish the french seam on unbleached muslin:
The tricks were to clip into the seam up to but not through the stitching at both entrances to the pocket bag after the first 1/4" stitching, and press it really well before enclosing with the second line of stitching. And the other trick is to live with small bits of exposed, unfinished fabric where the self is attached to the pocket bag:
But I can deal with that for my new love of french seamed side seam pockets. :D And I wore the dress to a local denim alterations workshop last night. Comfy! Summery! A little over-the-top with the print:
Last photo taken by fellow Austin seamster Andy Nguyen, at local fabulous indie fabric store The Common Thread. Two plates of food next to me, but only one is mine! Promise! ;) (More on local Austin sewing soon.)
One reason I tackled this pattern is that the bodice has bust pleats, kind of like my beloved Rooibos. I've done tissue fits on Rooibos and gone through 3 iterations of that front bodice. And I needed a break. So, once I get this McCall's bodice perfect, I will use it to flat pattern fit Rooibos. I hope.