... Well then, shame on me. This time, I'm referring to McCall's 5892. (And the first time, it was Vogue 1046.) It reads like a mystery in three parts, or maybe more like an episode of Blue's Clues. Not the full-on cartoon newer ones, but the original ones, with Steve, where Blue doesn't talk.
Ignored Clue #1: No printed bust measurement. A dress with no bust measurement on the front bodice pattern piece is shouting at me to walk away, but twice now I've taken the bait. Because I hope that, this time, the system will work in favor of my stature?
I had a yard of this plaid linen, which was 60" wide, and I really wanted to sew something from it for the imminent Texas summer heat. I bought the pattern last summer, drawn in by how quick I figured it would be to sew, and how comfy it would be despite the sun. Last night, having matched the linen to the pattern, I decided to read what other sewists had to say about M5892.
Ignored Clue #2: No one in the world had sewn this and written on the web about it. I searched patternreview.com AND Google and could not find one review, blog post, etc. from anyone who'd sewn this dress.
Ladies (and the occasional gentleman), I am clearly the only person in the cosmos who bought this pattern. And I'm obvz. the only one insane enough to sew it up! Now that I've looked up the pattern on the McCall's site, I see that it's already OOP. Of course! Why continue to print a pattern that has only sold one copy?????
Actually, it reminds me very much of the Japanese pattern book dresses, which are fairly oversized, simply constructed, and meant to be photographed with the model looking doe-eyed and winsome and holding something random.
Gotta work on that doe-eyed, winsome thing. And holding a power tool doesn't help portray softness and helplessness and vulnerability, does it? Well, it was laying about so there you go.
And when I say oversized, I mean oversized. Here's the dress on Clementine (size 2) vs. Carmen (size 6/8). I thought it would be obvious from photos, but it isn't. I promise, it looks much better on Carmen. The armholes are a tad high for a 6/8 person to feel full range of motion, though.
Ignored Clue #3: The dress does not look flattering on the pattern envelope model. Granted, she looks much bustier than I, which can make a sack-wearer appear matronly. But if there are va-va-voom curves under there you couldn't tell from this dress. It's quite sacklike. Looking at the bodice pattern pieces, it's clear there is almost no shaping at the waist, and you put the dress on by slipping it over your head. Translation: SACK.
Purely random notes:
- The center front pleat instructions were confusing. I guessed, I think I got it right, and I don't love how they turned out. Could also be the stiffness of the linen.
- I wasn't about to line a casual summer dress, as instructed, so I bias faced the neckline and bias bound the sleeves. The neckline is WIDE!
- I'd never sewn pure linen before and really appreciate how easy it is to finger-press it!
- Took my usual 1" petite adjustment at the waist, but then again -- WHAT WAIST? No visible definition on the finished garment. I might shape that waist a teensy bit more at the side seam and see what happens.
- The entire sewing process took 2.5 hours, and I'd say a good hour was spent just monkeying with the patch pockets, facing the neckline, and binding the armholes. This was a great "get your mojo back" quick garment that is as close to instant gratification as you can get.
- Linen is a much more sustainable fabric than cotton. Happy times for sewing from new fabric.
- I was able to cut the entire dress from 1 yard of fabric, without cutting anything on the cross-grain, though I had to downsize the pockets just a tad. As you can imagine, no plaids match across the sleeves or with the patch pockets, and there were just strips and scraps left. I appreciate that feeling of almost no waste!!! I appreciate less the feeling of almost no waist. Haha!
Well then, ladies (and the occasional gentleman), so ends this chapter of the riveting mystery of the Trickster Dress a.k.a. M5892. What? You say you had it figured out from the start? Next time, be sure to send me an email and let me know. Sometimes I want a dress to work out more than I want to pay attention to reality.