Does the bodice style look familiar? It mimics the new-ish (released in May, I think) Hazel pattern by Colette. I'll make the story quick: Sarai from Colette Patterns made this dress in an embroidered fabric and I LOVED the photos she posted on her blog. I got ready to boogie down to The Common Thread to make this pattern mine, but there were a couple hours yet before the shop opened. So I stayed busy reading pattern reviews on this gem. Someone who is on the petite end of the spectrum, very thin, AND wears a C-cup said the top of the dress, in size 0, was still too big for her, and then I knew I would have to drape this one instead of buying the pattern.
I really like the seaming on the front bodice! Mine is close to the original, just made for my body:
I made Macaron a couple years back. The fit is OK. I wouldn't call it perfect. I bought Rooibos but you've never seen it on this blog because I can't figure out how to do a good SBA with three bust darts! In my world, there is no need for three bust darts. I could never get the top to look right on me. Beautiful pattern, though. So here we are with Hazel and I just couldn't bring myself to get the pattern and potentially be dumbfounded about how to fit it to me and end up with another pattern minus a dress. Figured I would start from scratch.
It really wasn't bad. I used leftovers from a thrifted bed sheet that I used to make a Mociun knock-off long ago to drape the bodice on the form. The fit was easy to drape and then alter so I went to fashion fabric quickly. I'm a collector of lightweight denim, and I had two small cuts of dark denim to use. I used one for the top and another for the skirt.
There were a couple of fussy bits, like that tiny bust dart. It just wants to be pointy! Messed with it on the muslin a while and have ended up with a curved dart. It's finally working for me but could still use fussing to get it perfect, if I want to get to that point (no pun intended):
And yes, I did flat-felled seams all around the bodice, no lining.
Still struggling with invisible zippers, getting everything aligned just so. The waistline seam looks pretty good, just a titch askew:
But at the top of the dress you can see that things were a quarter inch off:
As I mentioned, the dress is not lined, so the top is finished off with a bias facing -- two inch bias strips of denim, folded in half lengthwise and sewn to the right side of the garment, then turned to the inside and topstitched down. A bit bulky at the back but I'm not worried about it. Here's the "big picture" from the back:
My skirt is very different from Hazel's! Did you notice? I have not had great luck gathering denim, even lightweight stuff, so I went in a different direction with a half circle skirt. This gal has a wonderful "cheat sheet" on pattern drafting the various kinds of circle skirts. I just measured the bottom of the bodice (27 inches) and used that as my radius in the half circle skirt calculation. Everything was just perfect. I finished the bottom of the skirt with my handy-dandy 6mm rolled hem foot! Heaven!
In reality, on my body? I think my waist is actually 1/2" higher than Clementine's. I will need to adjust for this in the future. My husband keeps harping on me that the bodice is too big, but to me it has wearing ease. Just LOVE this half skirt. I've only ever done full circle skirts in the past but I think half circle is just right for me. I considered putting in welt pockets because I can't imagine everyday life without pockets! Didn't want to affect the drape so no pockets for this dress, I think. Love the 2" wide straps that cover my bra from the front and back.
My "resort collection" is coming together! ;)